The Passenger: Rome

The best new writing, photography, art, and reportage from and about Rome—in the series that’s “like a literary vacation” ( Publishers Weekly ). If you believe recent chatter about Rome—in the media and by its residents—the city is on the verge of collapse. Each year, it slips further down the ranking of the world’s most livable cities. To the problems faced by all large capitals—hit-and-run tourism, traffic, the divide between elegant, Airbnb-dominated city centers and run-down suburbs—in recen