Land of a Thousand Eyes

‘A trio of colourfully dressed women tottered and teetered delicately through the water, holding hands, laughing. They were jewels in a sea of shit, standing out against the muddied monochrome of the monsoon's detritus, and they represented the admirable qualities of the Myanmar that I had come to love: the ability not only to make do, but to giggle and pursue life with joie de vivre, despite the deprivations dished out by the elements or by the military masters.' As a former rock magazine edito