Consider the Oyster

M. F. K. Fisher, whom John Updike has called our "poet of the appetites," here pays tribute to that most enigmatic of ocean creatures, the oyster. As she tells of oysters found in stews, in soups, roasted, baked, fried, prepared à la Rockefeller or au naturel—and of the pearls sometimes found therein—Fisher describes her mother's joy at encountering oyster loaf in a girls' dorm in the 1890s, recalls her own initiation into the "strange cold succulence" of raw oysters as a young woman in Marseill